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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,192
RKVS1 Offline OP
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I have a question on a 1980 Baldwin Sf-10 ( 7 footer, plus or minus )

The una-chorda pedal does NOT shift the keyboard at all. (Well maybe it nudges over 1/32 or so)
I didn't check by feeling the struck strings to see if it was stuck to the right (hitting only 2 strings) but it sounded as though all strings were being hit so it I figured its stuck in the Left-Most position.

I'm not sure how the mechanism works but it looks like a bell crank whose pivot point is a couple of octaves above middle C.

When the pedal is depressed the long arm of the crank moves vertically at the pedal maybe an inch or a bit less but then has a feel of "grating" or "straining" resistance, as if any further movement is due to the wooden bell-crank being bent as opposed to working against a spring, so I didn't force it very hard or very many times.

I couldn't get a decent view of the top end of the bell crank , nor how it actually attaches to the action, as there was too much stuff in the way plus I had no flashlight.. I didn't think to check for foreign objects or obstructions that might have been at the treble end of the keyboard or to check if the right cheek-block had been moved out of position somehow.

It was Friday afternoon, the store owner wouldn't be able to have a tech look at it till Mon. or Tuesday, so I thought I might get a few pointers in here as to what the problem might be, Sales-staff had only "oh that can be fixed easy" sayings and the owner wasn't there at the time. It probably IS a simple correction, but I thought I'd ask here for some advice. I don't know if its related at all, but all the notes have a good tone EXCEPT for the topmost "C" which is pretty faint or damped sounding.
That top notes on lots of pianos are pretty week and the only unusual thing here is that the " C " is the quite noticeably weaker than the next 3 or 4 keys down.

This was a church piano, but not its main piano, so it hasn't had a lot of use, or so I'm told. The hammers look as thought they have been "shaved" recently, as the working surface is a "clean" beige with no string scars, , while the unused surfaces are a "dustier" yellow.

While we're here, I'll ask the perennial question of date of manufacture Vs date of Baldwins $$ problems and "bad piano" rumors. I've been told that the Sf-10 and Sf-D models had a better quality record than the smaller models, so maybe that's not a problem anyway. The serial number is 233251 , which the store owner says is a 1980 model. Good sound, especially in the base and tenor strings.

Thanks in advance.

Bob

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A number of things could be going on causing little or now shift to the left. The best advice is to have a tech come out and go over the entire una chorda shift. When the left pedal is depressed the shift should begin- in other words there should be no lost motion or delay. If there is a delay then lost motion needs to be removed by adjusting the pedal rod. This may require new bushings or a simple turn of a nut on the pedal rod. The action should be pulled and the shift lever should be examined as well as the keyframe. There may be some wood in the frame that is worn down and needs to be repaired. The action return spring and the shift stop screw also should be examined. Finally the keybed should be examined and lubricated using graphite sticks on any hardwood inserts and ProLube or other piano lubes on the keybed. Another problem that may need to be investigated is the glidder bolt height. The glider bolts need to contact the keybed to assist with the shift. They also need to be adjusted so that the keyframe is bedded to the keyframe. The back of the back key frame rail may need some DAG liquid graphite applied to it as well as the action stop blocks. The cheek blocks or action holddown blocks need to also be holding the action down properly to the keybed. Its also possible that the action is not properly aligned in the action cavity and it is getting bound up when the pedal is depressed.


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RKVS1 Offline OP
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Thanks for responding, Jimbob. The next time I visited it they had it fixed, and it appears the possibility you stated last was the culprit. The tech had done some regulation just a few days earlier and had replaced the action a little bit out of square. The shift worked quite well the second time around.


Bob


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