Can this mounting silver pieces of metal sticking up be somehow removed/unscrewed?
Would it be possible to unscrew the 2 legs on the bottom and use holes/threads to mount it to some sort of flat base that would sit on the floor? Would the base of the pedal unit be strong and stiff enough?
Witor. The short arms poking from the module out can indeed be completely removed - very easily and conveniently. Once we remove the screws to remove the plastic material cover of the LP-1 ----- black coloured plastic cover in this case for the LP-1B (or white coloured plastic cover for the LP-1W), you can easily get a screw-driver to undo 2 screws for each arm. These screws are easily accessible.
The two rubber 'stoppers' - that protrude from the bottom of the LP-1, at first glance appear to be quickly removable. And they probably are easy to remove ---- possibly just stuck to the wooden blocks seen in the image (maybe double-sided sticky stuff).
If both the stoppers and the wooden blocks need to be removed, then it looks like it should be relatively straight forward to do that, by first undoing 2 screws each for removing the left pedal and the right pedal, which then gives access to the wooden blocks. Each of the small wooden blocks are removed with undoing two screws (for each block). Those screws can only be accessed by screwdriver when the left-pedal and right-pedal are removed. It doesn't appear to be difficult to do ----- so no problem. The wood blocks are 'external' - as can be seen in the image.
I started doing measurements last night before opening up the LP-1. The pin number assignment is based on the numbering in the image above, looking directly at the pins of the male connector, as we would see when looking directly at the pins of the connector of the LP-1.
I have a bunch of resistance measurements between pins (such as pin 1 to pin 2 --- shorthand "1-2"). So I did 1-2, 1-3, 1-4, 1-5, 1-6, 1-shield for the case where no pedals are depressed. Then 2-1, 2-2, 2-3, 2-4, 2-5, 2-6, 2-shield with no pedals depressed. Then 3-1, 3-2, 3-3, 3-4, etc ------- we get the drift heheheh. For sure, some of the measurements overlap (are common) - handy for double-checking maybe.
And then I did the same sets for the case where right-pedal fully depressed. And the same sets with middle-pedal fully depressed, and a set with left-pedal fully depressed. I can certainly put the measured values in a spreadsheet, and send out the spreadsheet and/or a pdf of the measurement sets.
It looks like not much meaningful results so far with the measurements. Pin 5 and 6 are found to be not internally shorted .... completely isolated from each other for all pedal conditions. Pin 1 and 2 has 3.9 kilo-ohm across them (ie. one probe on pin 1 and other probe on pin 2, results in 3.9k reading).
None of the pins are connected to the metal shield of the connector. Always 'infinite' resistance measured for each pin to the shield.
I didn't encounter any case (between any pair of pins) that had a spectacular change in resistance ---- such as flipping from 'infinite' resistance to zero resistance, or vice versa. There were even no cases encountered for occurrences of regular resistance (eg. 3k) flipping to zero resistance across any pair of pins.
So - it was necessary to open up the LP-1, to see what we can find. We will see a single long circuit board in there, which accommodates what appears to be three potentiometers. Or at least, I just assume all of them are potentometers - all three. They look identical.
The board has three lots of triplets of pins ---- with actual white-coloured print circuit board labels -- VD1, VD2 and VD3 ----- associated with the right pedal, middle pedal, and left pedal, in that exact order. Each triplet of pins, as can be seen in the image, are arranged in a row.
From preliminary resistance measurements, we will find that the pin (in each and every one of these three triplets) that is closest to the 'blue coloured grease' has zero resistance to pin 5. For convenience, I just label all triplet pins closest to the blue coloured grease as being 'a', which are all electrically shorted together.
Similarly, the middle pin from each and every triplet (which we can arbitrarily labeled as 'b' for all the middle pins) ---- has 2 kilo-ohm resistance to pin 5.
And, for all triplets, the pin (arbitrarily call them 'c') furthest from the blue coloured grease has 3 kilo-ohm resistance to pin 5 (not 2k .... but 3k). I found that all of the 'c' pins are shorted together.
I arbitrarily chose another reference pin to check out ---- such as pin 1. Each 'a' pin to pin 1 gives a 3k reading. And each 'b' pin to pin 1 gives a 3.7k reading. And all 'c' pins to pin 1 gives '0' resistance reading.
A resistance measurement between pin 'a' and pin 'c' is 3 kilo-ohm. Gradually making progress with seeing what's going in the LP-1. I'll do some more scouting to find out more, and will also double-check everything to make sure the info I've given so far is accurate. I reckon it's accurate --- but will double-check. And will later just write about what's most relevant or of interest to us.
Also - regarding the plastic cover. I believe it is definitely possible to do some drilling - and add extra small bolts that goes through the cover, and even can drill the metal internal frame ------ in order to attach that module to anything substantial (in terms of weight - some heavy block of own choosing) --- heavy enough so that nothing moves or slides when pushing the pedals with the feet. I think that this unit can be disassembled fairly easily - and some DIY can be done to mount this unit to something. Shouldn't be a problem.