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Yamaha's LP1 has to be attached to a wooden stand that I don't have and don't intend to buy. I would like to make a triple pedal unit that can just sit on the floor. Does anyone know what is the internal wiring of the LP1 unit. In particular I would like to know the following.

1) Is the right pedal connected to a potentiometer? If yes what is the resistance when pressed and depressed? If not is it based on 2 switches to support half pedaling?
2) Are middle and left pedals just switches or also use potentiometers?
3) How LP1 plug is actually wired - circuit diagram would be great.

Any chance I could get somewhere an service manual for yamaha LP1 pedal unit?

Are you going to try to modify a 3p 3-pedal unit? If so you're likely going to have to deal with more than just wiring (as you already know).

The right damper pedal is certainly connected to a pot, in order to support half-pedaling and partial pedaling through variable reaistance. What the voltage ranges are, and whether the pot is linear, and what the polarity is, are probably things you will have to seek out.

The middle and left should be on-off switches and not driven by pots.

I would say this kind of endeavor is only "worth it" for most people if it's something you really enjoy DIYing. Chances are the requirements are different enough between the DP and the pedals to require direct electrical modification to whatever unit you find, plus the cost of a 3-pedal unit with half-pedal support in the first place, to not make financial sense.

Have a look at

https://www.thomann.de/it/fatar_vfp...I8Z1F6c7_rF2KH3s_Uz-9XAuBMBoC7PkQAvD_BwE

Fatal/ studiologic 3 pedal unit compatible with Yamaha wiring. Bought this for my Yamaha cp88 and works beautifully. Saves you a lot of money also.

You need to be careful and get the 315 model not the 310

Also it has one mono and one stero jack, so depending on your use you might need a stero splitter

Ah, interesting that they have a version with Yamaha wiring! A couple of caveats:

1. If this is the same Fatar unit the Kawai outsourced for the MP11/VPC-1's F-30 triple pedal unit, know that it doesn't have the best reputation for reliability (the pot on the right sustain pedal is known to fail).

2. I'm not sure how the TRS/TS jack is wired, but a lot of Yamahas such as the P-515 only have a single TRS jack for the sustain pedal (along with the DIN 3-pedal jack). How you would wire up the left and center pedals are a bit of a mystery (you'd probably end up having to deputize that 3-pedal jack anyways)?

3. At 60EUR + shipping + wait time from Europe + modification, is it really worth it versus just getting the $90 LP-1?

There's also a 3rd party unit on Amazon that already has the Yamaha connector (https://www.amazon.com/DAOK-3-pedal-digital-keyboard-Electric/dp/B07ZKY2TH4) but they have some dire warnings about it not working with even Yamaha DPs that are not of the specific models listed. But again, it's only $20 cheaper than the official Yamaha unit, is it really worth the savings?

Another option is to find a used LP5A that presumably uses the same DIN jack, and has been the triple pedal stand add-on for the Yamaha P-series for decades. It has just a good of a chance of working with whatever Yamaha DP you have now, and you don't have to mess with the electronics or wiring at all. Just find a way to prop it up on the floor.

You could also order a FC3A pedal (relatively inexpensive) - and open it up to take a look around. That one will be pretty much the right-most pedal.

I assume that the left-most and middle pedal of the LP1 are switches only.

Is buying this LP1 and modifying it an option? Long ago I saw a modification on a IIRC Roland KDP-70 triple pedal unit. Basically, the person cut the sides of the wood close to the pedals and added some black covers and a wood base. The final result had a good look and the person had a triple pedal unit at a reasonable cost. It seems something similar can be done on the LP1.

Also .... which instrument you want to connect to? I think the 3 pedal unit goes to a paricular socket on the instrument, while the single pedal goes to a different one.

Unfortunately ..... can't see any circuit diagrams plus connector configurations anywhere online yet.

Having a LP1 at least allows it to be opened up to trace the wire paths between connector pins and each pedal component. And can even check out what sort of potentiometer it has in there.

Typo ---- 'particular' - was typing on mobile/cell phone before.

Also consider this ------- LINK

This following information appears to shed some more light ----- but not the full light. LINK

Their connector diagram appears to be looking directly at the holes of the female/socket side. It's just an assumption. This is the reason behind which ----- there needs to be a requirement for all pin-out diagrams (regardless of sockets or plugs or transistor legs etc) to be absolutely clear about the view-point. This really needs to be done for all specs sheets - connectors, transistors etc.

Will be interesting to see if both pin 1 and pin 2 are used. Or if only pin 1 is used (and pin 2 unused).

Also - apparently - which is pretty good ------ that sort of din connector appears to the exactly the same sort as a PS2 connector. Nice.

I did consider buying the LP1 triple pedal to modify it (mount it on a base), but I quite like DIY projects and have experience with both electronics CAD and 3d printing. It would help me tremendously if an owner of LP1 could use an ohmmeter and measure the following resistances between pins of the pedal plug of (disconnected) LP1. Pin numbers I will refer to are shown on this page:

Link

1) resistance between pins 6 and 5. Is it zero? If yes then:
2) resistance between pin 6 or 5 and all other pins one by one with no pedals pressed and with pedals pressed down one by one.

I would hope to get results that might look something like this (just an example, real results would most likely be different).

6-4 initial resistance infinity and goes to zero when left pedal pressed. Other pedals - no change.
6-2 initial resistance infinity and goes to zero when middle pedal pressed. Other pedals - no change.
6-1 initial resistance 10 kOhm and goes gradually to zero as right pedal is pressed. Other pedals - no change.
6-3 Infinity and does not change when pedals pressed.

Any chance that someone could actually measure this?

I have an LP1 bolted to one of my P-515 instruments - using the counterpart stand for the P-515 from yamaha. I won't be removing it to open it up to take measurements. For my other P-515 --- it is currently just using the FC3A pedal only, with solid double-x stand. I have just ordered an LP1 just a moment ago - as I'm interested to open one up to see what's in there. If you don't get any more details about the LP1 from anybody, then no problem --- I'll do some measurements for you when it gets here. Taking a look inside also will give me an idea about whether (if we actually wanted to) somebody could whip up a 3 pedal unit based on say a couple of FC4A pedals and one FC3A pedal.

You don't have to open it. I would never expect that someone will open it to make measurements.

I was just thinking about making measurements between the pins of the plug when pedals are not plugged in. If you have an Ohmmeter (or multi-meter set to resistance) please measure resistance between pins of the plug as I described in my previous post. It should not be too difficult when you get a new unit before you mount it.

If you are actually going to open it anyway (out of curiosity) please take some pictures of what is inside I am only interested in LP1 pedals as this is what I need for my DGX670.

witor ----- the PS2 type din plug is ultra tight fitting ----- super tight fitting. So tight that disconnecting the plug from the instrument will be a bit of a challenge. The tight fit is probably a nice thing actually. When the LP1 gets here, I'll take take some really good pics to share, and also give a proper/accurate account of the pin-outs - as in conveying clearly the observer's viewpoint, plus the resistance measurements between those pins you mentioned. Thanks for mentioning the instrument --- DGX-670.

It would be much easier to get the real LP1 and build a sturdy floor stand for it.
The pedal unit has 2 mounting holes on top of it; a simple but sturdy plate with attached U-, or L- arm(s) would work.

That is certainly one way to go - as in getting some relatively heavy block/mass, that the pedal can be connected to. The long arms of the LP1 could even possibly be removed, or shortened ---- with the LP1 simply bolted to the heavy-enough mass.

At the moment, I'm thinking that a couple of FC4A and one FC3A pedal (with double-sided tape underneath - even if it is say painter's tape) -- all connected to the PS2 type connector ----- could get the job done quite nicely too. And - if necessary - some machine grinding could be done to make each pedal unit 'narrower' - to get the pedals a little closer together.

Actually, these arms are not attached when shipped, you have to bolt them to.

Thanks vlad. I didn't even remember bolting them on haha. This was around June or so last year. Your idea of using the LP1 is actually a good one. A heavy-enough block or rectangular container - with the LP1 fastened to it - such as bolting on, or welding on ----- I can't remember what material it is for the chassis. Will have to check. And then fill up the container with sand or heavy rocks etc (and put a secure lid on it). So when we press down on the pedals, the structure won't move if it is heavy enough.

Not Yamaha, but works:



That is also originally a triple pedal "lyre" for the Kawai ES6.

There needs to be enough surface area of the bottom plate in front of the pedal box, so that it doesn't tilt when a pedal is pressed.

One potential problem is the pedal touching the bottom plate when it's pressed down. That's why the bottom plate is so small.

Whether it stays in place or not depends on the floor. And of course in my case it was against the wall, so it wasn't an issue.

A suitable sort of double-sided tape should work. I'd most likely use a mild painter's tape, just to avoid damage to the floor.