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I don't know about using felt, but FWIW the PTFE sheet / double-sided tape solution is still working perfectly for me several years on.
It depends really what is causing the stickiness: is it that the new pad has moved? In which case you need some different adhesive/tape. Or has it deformed - in which case using some thicker PTFE would probably help. Or is it that grease has dripped onto the pad - in which case just cleaning it might help but I'm not sure how to fix that long-term.
Attaching felt to all the keys sounds like a lot of work, but good luck if you try it!
Kawai CA95 / Steinberg UR22 / Sony MDR-7506 / Pianoteq Stage + Grotrian, Bluethner / Galaxy Vintage D / CFX Lite In the loft: Roland FP3 / Tannoy Reveal Active / K&M 18810
- Inconsistent let-off. The let-off on most keys is near imperceptible, the way it should be I presume. On a few keys however, especially some of the black keys, it is VERY noticeable, to the point where playing softly is not possible without having notes drop out. It actually takes a considerable amount of force, relatively speaking, to get past the let-off when playing softly.
I have this too. I wouldn't say it's a problem, but on my DP, some keys definitely have an extremely light letoff, and the ones with the most pronounced letoff tend to be the black keys. I suspect this is because the rubber letoff nub is in the same position for both white and black keys, though the pivot for the black keys is farther back (though the equivalent would be the same on an AP, right?).
The particular grand I get to play on the most has a much more pronounced letoff, so I tend judge everything against that...but it really just goes to show how widely varying our opinions can be as they're shaped by our own personal experiences on different pianos (which themselves vary a lot).
I also notice that some of the black keys have a more audible "thunk" when the key is released. It sounds EXACTLY like the "fallback noise" you can enable in VT so in a way, kudos to Kawai for the noise in their actions sounding so authentic! But as adjacent keys can be virtually silent when released, at some point I might open the thing up and see if there's a felt or cushion or something that's been compressed more than others.
Hi, sorry for my poor posting skills and many thanks to Iolatu and to all that have contributed to this thread. I bought a few years ago a new CA67 and had immediately problems with inconsistent letoff (as in the posts by travis524 and Gombessa I have 'cited' above). I contacted the seller and they sent a technician, but he kept the instruments for several months without solving the problem. Then, taking advantage from the instructions found here the open the piano, I improved a bit the situation by exchanging the central defective letoff elements with those in the extreme bass and high keyboard sections, just because they were working slightly better and the central region of the keyboard is the most used. I call letoff elements the parts, apparently made of silicone, resembling sort of combs, an octave-long, that support the 'teeth' that are hit by the hammers to provide the resistance that simulate the letoff. (I'm really sorry for this rough, imprecise description). Now, a couple of months ago some keys became very slow and sticky and I'm about to try to fix them with the PTFE layer method. I'm quite confident with this, but I'm wondering if someone has found some improvement with of the uneven letoff problem. I thought that a way could be to buy some new letoff elements to replace the defective ones. However, I wouldn't be sure that the new ones would work better and, in any case, I couldn't find any seller.
Hi everyone. New MP11 owner here. Mine is about 6 years old. Bought it used. I'm also an MP6 owner. Different horses. Both very good stage pianos.
While I'm getting used to the GF I realised that there are some small problems. From the 4th octave onwards nearly all of the black keys make a loud release "thunk", like a fallback noise. Before that point all the black keys are nice and quiet. All the white keys accross the board are very quiet. Maybe something with the casing, the balance rail or is it "normal" for the GF action?
Also the let off is very different to the one of the MP6 RH action - much more discreet - but it's also very incosistent around the keybed. I think this is not how it was designed.
Any ideas how can I sort out these slight problems (for the time being they don't affect my joy while playing this excellent DP)?
PS. Excellent thread for all GF action users who are quite capable with tools. Thanks to all the contributors for the fantastic ideas and suggested solutions.
Yes I know Kevin M I 've seen that thread while I was searching the forum for an answer. But it seems that there is no obvious DIY solution (or am I wrong). Apparently it's the casing...I guess. I'm not in anyway obsessive to complain about product quality etc. etc. I just love to play. If something is wrong and can be fixed good. If not it's ok with me as long as the instrument is good. And the MP 11 is really good. If there is no solution I will experiment in the near future with loosening the casing on that side.
Dear all Just to give a follow up to my post of July: I repaired my daugther CA67, by replacing all slip tapes (Teraoka 777 sold by Kawai France). Same procedure as stevenk123. Perhaps I made a mistake, but I added a very small amount of silicon oil on the new PTFE layer of each key (advice given by Kawai technician from USA). Remark from stevenk123 about oil and glue migration risk make sense... I hope he is wrong ! Thanks for all your information shared here, especially adrianR2, Terry Michael and stevenk123 My daughter is now playing this piano for 2 months, the action seems to be perfect. I hope it will last for a long time... As it took me hours to repair ! The Teraoka 777 given by Kawai is not exactly the same slip tape as the defective original in my CA 67 piano, but it have the same height, before the capstan start to form it. After the operation, the keys have the same height, no need to tune the keyboard. To show 2 issues seens on our CA 67 before operation, I shared 2 videos: KEY TAKE A LONG TIME TO COME BACK IN INITIAL POSITION KEY HARD TO PRESS
I 'm a very disappointed with Kawai. An issue can happen, but the way they decided to treat it (I shoud say "not to treat") is not correct. Especially for a well known problem on their production, happened just after guarantee period.
18 months after my intervention on my daugther's Kawai CA67, the piano is still OK. Oil didn't cause any issue (that was a very very small amount of silicon oil). That is good because I spent a lot of time to repair this piano! I never got any answer from Kawai support (France) about my oil question.
Symptoms: Key is initially harder to press down, and clicks
Alternatively, keys are slow and heavier to push down.
Fix summary: Clean pad / hammer capstan with WD40
Remove splinters / sand down rough edges
Repair instructions: Open up the piano, and clean the capstan and contact pad on the keys. A small amount of WD40 on a cloth or cotton bud did the trick for me (see second video above).
Another case of splinters appearing after I'd removed the keys to fix the balance rail, though the symptoms are somewhat different to the other case. Simply open up the piano, take out the key and remove rough edges.
Hi --- Any chance you can repost this video? MY P11 was stored on its end for 8 months during the worst of Covid by my landlord while I was stuck 3000 miles away. I"m trying to fix it now - many keys hardly press down at all. Thanks! - Jeff Newton
Selmer Mark VI Tenor (‘73) & Alto Sax (‘57), Yamaha YSS-62 Soprano Sax (‘87), Conn Naked Lady Baritone Sax (‘52), Conn New Wonder Tenor & Alto Sax (‘24), Yamaha WX5 Wind Synth (‘13), Kawai MP11 & ES-110, Numa Compact 2x, Casio PX5S, Roland VR-09, Hammond E-112 (‘69).