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Hi everyone. I'm a starter piano student and I would like you to help me choose between the two options I have to buy a second hand digital piano. The two options are: a Yamaha CLP 575 with 4-5 years and in good conditions for 1000€ and a Roland LX706 with headphones and bench ( and I think both the headphones and the bench (170€ new) are quite good ) for 2000€ (I might low it to 1700€ or 1800€ but I'm not sure).
This Roland still has 9 years warranty and hasn't been played since the seller told me it is packed as new. So it's almost like a new LX706. My question about it is: is it worth paying the difference between them? I'm a beginner and I'm now focused on my studies so I guess I'll have 1 hour a day to play it and, maybe, with the CLP 575 it's enough for me. I hope you help me choose or give your opinion. Thanks 😊.

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The CLP is enough for you, IMHO!

Now, this is assuming that the instrument is indeed in ‘good’ condition. The most important part to check is the keys/action: check for any wobbling, clacking, abnormal noises, spacing issues (gaps between keys, etc..) with the volume turned down, and then raise the volume and check how the ‘sensors’ respond to your touch; in other words, if you play softly but hear a loud sound that could mean an issue with the sensors. Sometimes it’s simply dirt/dust that accumulates over the years, and other times it might be something more serious. Are you up for opening things and tinkering? I’m not!

This is personal, but I feel Yamahas are better built (to last) than Rolands. Once again, IMHO!

And finally, the warranty (9 years) is worth nothing to you because these are not transferable; of course, this is unless you know the buyer personally (buddies), and he can vouch for you: he calls for service and you simply pretend to be him when the tech arrives (I suppose you can make the initial call, too, and “Joe” doesn’t have to do a thing). As far as I’m concerned, the techs don’t ask for ID upon repairs, so if you say you’re “Joe”, the original owner, they will take your word for it.

Are you up for pretending you’re “Joe”, the original owner?

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By the way, I might get to lower the price of the Roland if I tell the seller that I only want the piano. If the bench and the headphones are 250€, I might be able to get it for 1600. Maybe...

And I guess I won't be Joe because I don't know him at all.

Last edited by Amadeus M.; 09/25/21 09:20 AM.
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Also I won't buy a piano which I try and see any minimal trouble with the keys. If I try it and any key is broken, just back home and keep searching.

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Well then ... no warranty.
Originally Posted by Amadeus M.
I guess I won't be Joe because I don't know him at all.

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Originally Posted by MacMacMac
Well then ... no warranty.
Originally Posted by Amadeus M.
I guess I won't be Joe because I don't know him at all.

Guys, we could still work around this without the ‘real’ Joe’s participation.

As I said before, the techs don’t ask for ID, so you simply call -passing for Joe- and tell them your Roland LX706 needs some repairin’; once you give them the serial#, etc, and they ask for your name, you simply tell them I’m “Joe”, the original owner.

If, per se, they notice you now have a different address, simply tell them that “Joe” has moved since buying the LX706 (I doubt they will be suspicious about this).

The best way to prepare for this impersonation is to have as much info on “Joe” as you possibly can; for example, upon purchasing the used LX706 ask the real Joe for a copy of the purchase agreement or some sort of store receipt to keep for your records; this not only solidifies that indeed you are the original owner, but it also gives you the dealer’s address, phone number, and exact date of purchase.

Once again, I don’t think you’ll need any of that (techs don’t ask any questions), but it doesn’t hurt to be prepared in case you do get the one tech that doubts you are who you say you are, “Joe”.

Now, if you simply buy the Yamaha we don’t have to worry about any of the above, and I reiterate, Yamaha is the best! IMHO!

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Ask the seller if they registered purchase and warranty with Roland. If not, I believe you can still can register it under your name. Ask if the seller has the original purchase receipt.
Both pianos are good, but even without a warranty I would still take LX-706.
Newer, provided you like the modelled sound.


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I'm still doubting, but I think I can do something to solve that. Yamaha's owner won't probably low the price, but Roland's owner might. So I'm going to ask Roland's owner if he accepts to sell it without the bench and headphones. If he does, I'll negociate the price but I doubt we reach a good price for me. Anyway, if I get a really good price, I'll get it. If he does not accept that, I'll just go for CLP 575 which I also think will be more that enough for 5-6 years while I'm studying my degree.

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By the way, do you think NWX action is a tiring action? I mean, does it hurt your fingers when you play for some time?

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Perhaps you did not ask me, but I play this action -NWX- every day, and for me it is not tiring at all.

These things are subjective, but the only time I felt the action a bit heavy was when I first played the piano without any sound (OFF), but once that sound engine kicks in, it’s the perfect combination between substantial -not heavy- and lightning fast; and yes, you have all the dynamics you need within a fingers reach; heck, some people even prefer it over the newer GrandTouch action; which, incidentally, has longer pivots.

And this -pivot length- brings me to my next point:

This assumption that a longer pivot action is by default better than a shorter pivot action is overly simplistic because pivot length is but one amongst many components, and moving parts, that ultimately comprise what we call a ‘good’ action.

I owned an MP-10, and loved the action (RM3), but then out comes the GF with longer pivots promising to get you closer to the feel of a concert grand; of course, I believed the hype, that is, until I played a CA-95 and realized that the action was simply too light-fluffy-bouncy, but the hype was so deeply embedded in me that I convinced myself that what I initially experienced as too light-fluffy-bouncy was just a matter of getting used to the “superior action”………

Well, I bought a CA-95 and never-ever got ‘used to it’. My sentiments were later confirmed by many who felt that indeed the action was too light-fluffy-bouncy.
But don’t get me wrong, it is a good action, and you can play anything on it, but it wasn’t to my liking despite the longer pivot.

Fast forward to the LX-17, and yes it had a decent action, but now I see that the LX706 has a longer pivot (you see where I’m going?), and the same claims are being made, yet again, in isolation from everything else that makes an action ‘good/better/superior/etc’.

So, the moral of the story is to not let yourself be influenced by these things, and/or that the LX706 is the better instrument because it’s newer and has longer pivots than the CLP-575, and that you try both instruments and go with the one that makes your heart sing. You might come out surprised at how much that old little 575 can do (yes, I’m a little biased), or it could well be that the 706 is the one for you!


Here’s a little snippet of the NWX action in action!


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Thanks Pete. I really appreciate that. I understand perfectly what you say. I didn't told you but I once tried the NWX and felt better to me against the Grand Feel Compact, but it's relieving to hear something like that from someone. I'm a very undecided person. I'll save some money and go for the CLP 575. I hope it really is in good condition. Thanks again for your help.


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