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Greetings,
I have seen a common thread emerge in, well, threads, whenever the mention of gluing a hammer to a WNG hammershank arises. The dissimilarity of the materials suggests an insurmountable barrier to some, a sly chemical trick to others, and perhaps, for the mossy-back reactionaries, a traitorous distance from hot--hide--glue. There is another group, and that is of those that have used them.

We glue these things on with a variety of CA glues.Thick and thin. A variety of techniques has been employed, and the jury is not really out so much as wandering around like a clutch of hens on nitrous oxide. I had been using CA like I had used hide glue, slightly thick and just loose enough to spin onto the shank. It worked well, usually, but the rare failure caused me to add a thin CA sizing to the inside of the bored and fitted hammers the day before I hung them, (or an hour, if that was the way things were going).

The bores were allowed a drop or two or three to wick into all that end-grain, nicely staining the mahogany around the hole. When set, the reinforced wood feels about like a pin block and a touch of the round file is all that is needed to fit exactly where I wanted it on the shank. Then a smear of thick CA, a spin, a drop on the jig with time enough to sight from all sides, and a beer.

And now Ed McMorrow lets on that he has been snug fitting and weeping thin CA into the joint after the hammer has assumed the position. Fixing things in place, then bonding them in situ makes more sense than chasing the magic hammer line while swimming in chemicals that can make you one with your workbench, (don't ask me about it, and there is no need to talk about the empty acetone cans and a phone just out of reach) and it cuts out unnecessary steps. I like that idea a lot, and will try it next action.

I haven't seen a joint failure in the last four actions I have used these parts in, so I am thinking it just may be a well-skinned cat, by now.
Regards,

I think you may be right. Ed McMorrow may have found the golden mean. One of these days I need to drive the 30 minutes to see their work.

SMHaley,
How about tomorrow morning? I will be trying to finish sanding a plate and getting a coat of gold on it before the teacher who uses my showroom for a few afternoon lessons show up.

Hail

AN then you see the strike need to be modified a bit and hammers unglued on part of a section

you joking ? 30 minutes car ? I know personally all the techs at that distance !

I use a set of strike point ratios for note 88, 83, 78, 73, 68 and then depending on the piano 63 and 55. I haven't had to modify a strike line on a newly glued set of hammers now for many years since I worked the system out.

You can unglue carbon shank to wood CA bond by wicking in acetone and using the remover pliers.