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#644714 - 03/31/04 04:03 PM Regulating piano  
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 15
Piano friend Offline
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Piano friend  Offline
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 15
Brazil
Hi !

I still working hard on my grand piano! I'doing as BDB and Otherside said.
But there's a question: what's distance between the jack and the jack adjustment button?

Thank you very much.


Chopin,Liszt,Rachmaninoff
Arrau,Horowitz
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#644715 - 03/31/04 05:22 PM Re: Regulating piano  
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BDB Offline
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Oakland
You adjust the button so the when the key is depressed slowly, the hammer lets off, or stops going up 2 mm or 1/16" from the string. Cheaper grands and most uprights should be twice that distance.

Screwing the button up makes the let-off closer to the string, screwing it down, farther.


Semipro Tech
#644716 - 03/31/04 05:28 PM Re: Regulating piano  
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BDB Offline
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A suggestion: Request a service manual from a piano company. It won't matter which one. They are all essentially the same.


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#644717 - 04/01/04 06:33 PM Re: Regulating piano  
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Manitou Offline
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Colorado
Schimmel makes (or used to make) a really nice servicing manual, for both uprights and grands.


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#644718 - 04/01/04 09:50 PM Re: Regulating piano  
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Brazil
Thank you BDB and Manitou!

Where can I get Schimmel manual?


Chopin,Liszt,Rachmaninoff
Arrau,Horowitz
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#644719 - 04/02/04 10:18 AM Re: Regulating piano  
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Manitou Offline
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Colorado
I'm guessing by contacting Schimmel and asking them ? Or try Sauter or Grotrian as well for fun.
Look them up on the internet.


Manitou - Pianist - Technician
#644720 - 04/02/04 10:26 AM Re: Regulating piano  
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BDB Offline
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Oakland
I would try the distributer in your country. Kawai had a good one.


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#644721 - 04/02/04 07:04 PM Re: Regulating piano  
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Brazil
OK !


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#644722 - 04/16/04 11:09 AM Re: Regulating piano  
Joined: May 2003
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ChickGrand Offline
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Midwest U.S.
Rather than start a new thread, I'll just use this one about regulation since that's my topic, too.

I do my own tuning and regulation of my old Chickering concert grand and have done quite well with both over the last two years. When I bought it, it was sorely in need of regulation and I got it quite good in a couple of passes right after I got it. But last night, I decided to get VERY picky and built a rack/jig at exact string height. Then I went through the whole action and did a full regulation, not skipping any steps. Many adjustments were already right on target, but using a jeweler's loop, I very anally made sure the back of every jack head was exactly in line with the back of the little wooden core of each knuckle. I adjusted the few repetition screws that needed a touch up and the few let-off buttons that needed a tweak, etc. Adjusted backchecks and achieved very good uniformity there. Etc. All in all, a very careful job. (Last time I tuned, I checked string levelling and hammer alignment and adjusted all that and related very carefully.)

The thing I did last night that I think made the greatest difference, though, was that I lubed the jack heads and repetition lever shoulders with dry graphite. I'm amazed at what a difference that made. I've been very happy with the evenness of the touch in the past and it's been fairly uniform and with a very comfortable touchweight (it had felt quite heavy and uneven on arrival). I had noticed before that those surfaces were previously lubed with graphite but had never relubed them myself. Last night, I decided the film of graphite looked a little uneven--enough to rob me of that perfect uniformity I'm after. The wood of the shoulders of the repetition levers and of the jack heads was mirror smooth on close inspection. I applied graphite to get a very even film on those surfaces so that they looked quite mirror-like, as if they were stainless steel even. I am amazed at the touch afterward. Absolutely even from one end to the other and silky smooth. It even seemed immediately as if its great tone had became even more spectacular, but I think this is just the result of the evenness.

So my question--how often should I lube the jack heads and repetition lever shoulders? How long does a graphite film last with an average of say three hours per day of play and a moderate 45-50% humidity/72 degree environment? (Knuckle leathers are as new with no flattening from compression or hardening or roughness.) I'm just curious what to expect for an interval before doing this again. Every tuning (about six month interval)? What type of graphite do you guys use for this contact point and how do you apply it?

#644723 - 04/16/04 02:14 PM Re: Regulating piano  
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curry Offline
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Hamilton Twp, NJ
Chickgrand,graphite powder is antiquated.Get some of Bill Spurlock's micro-fine teflon powder,it is much better,especially when mixed with a little Prolube.Graphite powder is also hydroscopic,it attracts moisture.If applied to the knuckles(a big no-no)it will cause the buckskin to harden and cause noise. frown


G.Fiore "aka-Curry". Tuner-Technician serving the central NJ, S.E. PA area. b214cm@aol.com Concert tuning, Regulation-voicing specialist.
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Bösendorfer 214 # 47,299 214-358
#644724 - 04/19/04 08:22 AM Re: Regulating piano  
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Manitou Offline
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Colorado
Yup, I also recommend using (the white) Teflon powder. Have no idea about the length of its initial lubricating capacity and how fast this deteriorates. I can find traces of it even after one year though.


Manitou - Pianist - Technician

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