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PVC-E use to be my favorite, buts its increasingly hard to get and is temperamental in cold weather, thus you can't even get it in winter. I decided to test 7 different glues from Home Depot. I found 1 that works great, and i found one that is usually highly recommended that doesn't work very well at all. The problem with plastic is that there are many different kinds so testing becomes necessary. This video will save many Techs some research and money. -chris
The talk these days for keytops seems to be Roo Clear melamine adhesive (or Titebond Melamine adhesive...)
There is also the suggestion of Evacon-R.
I guess absolute strength is not necessarily the top priority - how much "prising-off" force are piano key coverings subjected to in playing? Other factors may come into play, as long as the key coverings don't actually fall off; curing time, ease of cleaning any surplus, not drifting while curing etc.......
The real issue with keytops AFAIK is the fact that the wood of the key is constantly moving underneath as it expands and contracts with ambient humidity changes, whereas the keytop material does not (virtually speaking). It is this phenomenon that gradually degrades the adhesive interface. So one wants an adhesive that can effectively deal with this and remain ADHESIVE for a good many years.
Very good points Peter. I also wanted to try Roo Glue and Titebond Melamine glue, but the Home Depot here doesn't carry them. My thesis was to find easy to get glue that work. To get the glues above would require high shipping costs as well.
Local acquisition convenience is definitely a plus. I never even heard of those two glues. All the others I am familiar with. Surprised about the 6000 though. Would certainly work in a pinch I think though.
I have used Titebond PL for plastic sharps and it works very well. The drawback I would have with either of your top choices is that they are not water based. This makes clean-up a lot harder.
I currently use Roo Glue Clear. It's stronger than PVC-E and thicker so there's less drips. The key top needs to be pressed, but does not need to be clamped. However, some key top fronts need blue tape to hold them in place. I can usually begin to work the keys in about an hour. Additionally, any glue that might get on the surface can be removed with a wet rag.
I get my supply from Amazon.
Professional Piano Technician serving the Tampa bay area. website: mckaigpianoservice.com
I see that a lot and contact cement just don't hold up over time.
I can report that the loctite premium is a complete success. Those keytops are not coming off anytime soon. The glue also glues plastic to keyfronts as well.
Peter, they are not CA Glues, and yes there is a strong bond with the Gorilla Clear and Loctite Premium. I just released a new video in which i test two more glues, Titebond Quick and Thick since i know a lot of people use it. After my test, i don't recommend it as it doesn't bond. I found another glue called Fuse it by Liquid Nails which is now my favorite. See the video of the tests. -chris