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Joined: Jan 2022
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kpogoda Offline OP
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For background, I went through the process of already upgrading and regulating the action on my Otto Altenburg 5'2" Samick Stencil baby grand with Baldwin Renner Whippens. I got frustrated and went ahead and remedied a flaw with my piano by doing so. I was simply done with re-pins and CLP.

Now, the action plays fantastic with the Whippen upgrade. I am very happy with the quality of the Renner whippens and how they perform.

As the final upgrade step, new matching Renner shanks and flanges need a proper high end hammer to match the upgraded quality.

I am seeking experienced technician inputs.

For taste reference baseline. I absolutely love the Yamaha CX series pianos, one on a showroom meticulously prepared. I also had the rare opportunity in my life to play an English piano I believe from the 1700's gifted by the queen of England. Not only was the outside absolutely stunning, so was the sound. Those are the two pianos that most stick out as memorable for me. They probably are both at opposite ends of the spectrum for pianos, funny enough, but an appreciation exists for both.

Now, the Samick stencil will never be those pianos. Fully understood. But, I went this far, and wish to make it all it's going to be.

I see Abel Walnut and Monogany options pre-bored. I assume my action would likely match the standard bores and will need to triple check measurements. I also assume for a piano this size 15lb. I understand these are hot pressed and a step above quality, which is what I am seeking. This is currently what I am leaning towards from initial research.

What would you put into this piano?

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I would suggest that you not make assumptions about bore distance and hammer weight. There are ways to measure to determine what is needed. If you don't have the skill set, or are not inclined to learn the skill set, I recommend you find someone who has already acquired it. You will not regret the decision to have it done right.

All the best to you on this project!


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kpogoda Offline OP
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I have replaced hammers in my life individually prior for repair in the past, so not my first rodeo and appreciate the caution. The original shanks, flanges and hammers shall be preserved untouched if I decide to go back. I am a scientist by trade, so this is a fun hobby project for me. Attention to detail and research comes natural.

There are different bore angles for the bass, tenor and treble (Bass 12° 30 hammers- Tenor 9° 16 hammers- Tenor 6° 22 hammers- Treble 0° 20 hammers), plus different sizes 2 1/8", 2" and 1 7/8". And progressive gram touch weighting. Bore angles, no pitch/rake on mine so that is easier, hole diameter, weight, center bore to felt tip length, etc... Fully Understood.

I am really wondering if anyone else has replaced hammers on a Samick in the past and what types made the instrument shine for others.

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I have used Ronsen hammers on Samicks that are significantly lighter and softer than the factory types. Hammer weight has a HUGE effect on tone, touch and durability. Lighter hammers have lower inertia, and thus rebound from the string more rapidly.

Significantly lower weight hammers does mean removing some or maybe all of the front weights on the keys to make the action feel proper.

The tone regulation protocols I use are called LightHammer Tone Regulation.

Last edited by Ed McMorrow, RPT; 01/30/22 10:51 PM. Reason: typ[o

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Ed, is it fair to say that a hammer that rebounds more quickly will excite more upper partials, and therefore, in order to have a balanced tone will need to be softer and perhaps have a more rounded shape? There's no implied criticism here, I'm just curious.


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