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- If you get an 80 ohm and it sounds too loud, you can turn the volume down using the NV10’s volume knob. Theoretically this will produce a cleaner signal since you are not pushing the amp to its limits.
The NV-10 also has a digital headphone volume "switch." I can't recall if it goes between "low" and normal or "high" and normal, but I suspect it's a way to boost or attenuate just the headphone volume so that it can be more in line with how the master volume knob is set (e.g., so you don't pull out the headphone cable and suddenly blow out the speakers at 200db.
Thanks Seif Maher and MacMacMac, you are absolutely right... one simply has to try them out.
And I also found your consideration interesting
Originally Posted by Seif Maher
- If you get an 80 ohm and it sounds too loud, you can turn the volume down using the NV10’s volume knob. Theoretically this will produce a cleaner signal since you are not pushing the amp to its limits.
I finally decided to order the following three models with different impedances to test once the NV10 has arrived:
- Beyerdynamic DT 880 Edition - 32 Ohm - Beyerdynamic DT 880 Edition - 250 Ohm - Beyerdynamic DT 770 Pro - 80 Ohm (By the way, this model was recommended to me in a mail from the Digital Product Manager of Kawai America)
I will gladly share my (subjective) impressions and decision here, but that will only happen in December when the piano will be delivered.
It will be interesting to see what your impressions will be, I too am interested in the 880, 32 ohm. I can recommend one another Beyer model to try out, the DT250. It's a closed design with a more neutral sound signature than the DT770- Very good for piano.
"Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler." - Albert Einstein
Can any owners of NV10 tell me what garritan cfx sounds like through the NV10 speakers? Any issues at all? On my ca99 it actually distorts through the speakers if played too loud the garritan cfx... But the sound is pretty good overall through ca99 speaker system.
I only tried it for a little while when I first got the NV-10, but it sounds amazing through the NV-10. My MBP had a ground loop issue so I never kept it hooked up to the speakers; however its character really carried over with the NV-10's speakers, rich, full-bodied, and resonant.
The Garritan CFX has a bit of a "noise floor" so if you turn it up, you'll hear a bit more hiss when notes are sounding than you will with the built-in sounds, which are crystalline in comparison, but I've never heard any distortion at volume.
I only tried it for a little while when I first got the NV-10, but it sounds amazing through the NV-10. My MBP had a ground loop issue so I never kept it hooked up to the speakers; however its character really carried over with the NV-10's speakers, rich, full-bodied, and resonant.
I have a USB audio interface that's semi-permanently affixed to the Novus. 5-PIN MIDI cables go from the Novus to the audio interface and the audio output of the USB audio interface goes back to the Novus.
For the sake of science, I plugged in my MBP to power and hooked it up to the audio interface. Happy to say that the sound is glorious and there is absolutely no ground loop with this setup.
Previously, I had resorted to using a MIDI to USB cable, though I avoided plugging in the MBP to power. That worked much better than straight USB to USB which could exhibit terrible ground loop issues.
I only tried it for a little while when I first got the NV-10, but it sounds amazing through the NV-10. My MBP had a ground loop issue so I never kept it hooked up to the speakers; however its character really carried over with the NV-10's speakers, rich, full-bodied, and resonant.
I have a USB audio interface that's semi-permanently affixed to the Novus. 5-PIN MIDI cables go from the Novus to the audio interface and the audio output of the USB audio interface goes back to the Novus.
For the sake of science, I plugged in my MBP to power and hooked it up to the audio interface. Happy to say that the sound is glorious and there is absolutely no ground loop with this setup.
Previously, I had resorted to using a MIDI to USB cable, though I avoided plugging in the MBP to power. That worked much better than straight USB to USB which could exhibit terrible ground loop issues.
This is great news Navindra. My USB interface does have midi-ports. I will try this. I tried the iFi filter, and it does a poor job.
+1, thanks Navindra. If I go the route of setting up a PC/mixer to the NV-10 again, I think I'd do something similar, it'd be nice to get rid of the MBP's ground loop. I also want to be able to mix a headset/mic signal in with the DP's output for more clear Zoom lessons.
After finally solving the noise from the pedal box, thanks to the Kawai tech, I am getting this now. Can one of you guys recommend a fine teflon, and must I remove the front panel and apply it inside? If so, is there only the two screws I see in the top RH and LH sides of that small panel?
Sounds like the rod squeaks inside of the felt bushings, right?
First, try rotating the rod a bit. If that doesn't help:
If it is at the top, try pushing the rod back a bit, so that it doesn't touch the front. If that doesn't help, or if it returns, or if it is at the bottom:
Try applying a bit of graphite dust. Scrape if off of a pencil or use a sharp knive to expose a bit of the "lead" from a wooden pencil and use that directly as an "applicator". Like this: Normal pencil: =====> Whittled down pencil with "lead" exposed: ===>--
Might require a few repeat applications, if it starts again after a while.
Thanks, Jobert. I can't turn the rod at all. I know I used to? But the effort seems to have helped. I have been using the pencil lead since I got the piano on the bottom of the rod. I tried it twice on the top and didn't get a good result.
The damper pedal rod does spin freely. It's not threaded or bolted into anything. Chances are if yours is not spinning, it's just pressed strongly against the leather pad/cap that it rests against (the tan colored disc labeled #3 here):
You should be able to just firmly grasp and turn the rod to get it moving.
I recall that I set up my pedal rod a couple of mm "off center" on the pad, so that I could minimize the rubbing of the rod against the felt liner; along with lubricating using powered graphite, that helped eliminate squeaks coming from the rod.
OK, Now I understand. The reason, perhaps, that mine will not rotate freely, is because the tech placed a piece of hard (not wood) material he cut to size under the pedal box. We removed the stabilizing screw on the bottom of the pedal box and placed the board instead. That is what finally stopped the creaking from the bottom. And may be pushing the rod up causing it to rub on something. I tried turning it with pliers (wrapped in a towel) but still couldn't turn it. I pushed hard on the top and it stopped for a minute and started back. Same result when pulling on it. Then I had an epiphany. Looking at Gom's picture I decided to pull it to the right. And that worked. It moved, I even heard it move inside. Great help, you guys. Thanks. Tom
Hi all. This is my first post here after reading through just under half of this massive thread over the past few days.
I’ve ordered an NV10 with delivery not expected until (hopefully) mid January ‘21 due to the short supply and long waiting lists for this instrument. My choice was between the N1X and the NV10 and when trying both these DP’s the NV10 conjured up (for me) a much more complete and three dimensional sonic picture.
I didn’t check the demo model for speaker noise and am now quite concerned about the not insignificant number of users who have hiss or noise on the internal speakers. As a former recording engineer, this would drive me completely mad. Can I ask if this problem has been solved yet?
I didn’t notice it on the early-production unit I got to test in a completely silent room. (and I’m fairly sensitive to that, as my desktop studio monitors at idle are fairly annoying this way until they’re playing music.)
Granted I was seated at a piano bench, a normal distance away, and not seeking it out by cranking up the gain and putting my ears right against the grilles...
Kawai James may have a better answer but I remember it was fixed in a software update.
Piano: Yamaha N3X VST(preference in order): VSL Synchron Pianos, Vienna Imperial, Garritan CFX, VI Labs Modern U, Ivory II American Concert D, Pianoteq