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I'am looking for a digital piano/weighted controller for my VST Piano libraries (Noire, Garritan, Pianoteq), what would be the best controller under 600 US Dollars? I did some research on my own as much as I could from forums that will share it here, but I feel I will need still some of your opinions here, since I can't try them in person.

Roland FP 10, I was almost decided for this one because of PHA 4 Standard action that have Triple sensor, Ivory Ebony and escapement, but after seeing many reviews that the keys are making clicky noise after short period of use I kinda changed my mind..

Yamaha p 115/45 - (Heard that it has a poor velocity response 30-75 range), so it's out of question.

Kawai ES110 - I Know that it has a dobule sensor, but didn't get many other info, I would be thankful to share your opinion for this one for it's velocity response.

Casio PX S 1000 - I had a Casio CDP 220r, I know how Casio keys feel (only problem was that I have longer fingers, and because of Casio shorter pivot, it was sometimes hard to play "inside the keys", don't know how other boards like FP10 and Kawai es 110 are in this aspect).
I have never tried PX S5, which I can see from one Italian guy videos, he is testing PX s5 vs CDP 120, and the responsivity on the PX s5 is so much better, because probably of the third sensor, and yes this one and PX s 1000 are the only one in this price range that have High Resolution (share your opinion if you think this is important for controlling VST Libraries)

Studiologic SL 88 Studio - Fatar keys that people say are bad, it has third sensor and good responsivity from what I heard from other guys, but it's durability is bad, many users reported this.

StudioLogic SL 88 Grand - I know that this is more expensive, but if it's better than all other mentioned above by a margin, and it does not have the durability problems like SL 88 Studio, maybe I could stretch my money range for this one.

Feel free to rate the pianos above with ratings from 1-10, and recommend other board if you have on mind.

Anyone ?

CDP-220R, PX5S, and PX-S1000 have three different actions.

People here have argued about the value of high resolution velocity. I'm on the side of it being unimportant. Even *if* there's a benefit, other things make a much bigger difference.

One more to add to your list could be the Korg D1, which is their least expensive board with their best action (RH3).

Yeah I heard really good things about RH3 Korg, but people reported that is not as good as PHA 4 Standard or Casio with triple sensor, especially when trying to play the low velocities..

Keep in mind that there is no spectacular sub-$600 board. So if you find something that has one of the attributes you're looking for, you might have to compromise on another. But in the end, it all comes down to how the feel under your fingers, and no one will be able to answer that one except you.

> what would be the best controller under 600 US Dollars? I did some research on my own as much as I could from forums that will share it here, but I feel I will need still some of your opinions here, since I can't try them in person.

The opinion that really matters is your own, you can't rely on others' because this is quite subjective.
Korg D1 may suit your list, and feel free to omit PX-S.
> Fatar keys that people say are bad
Nord Piano and Stage users don't seem to complain en masse, though I wouldn't know if they get special versions and QC. But their popularity is probably not from the key action.

At the risk of being redundant ... you really should make your own judgement.
Also, I think you should have a list of criteria. What things you want. What things you need.

Main requirement is to be as much responsive as possible when playing with Piano VST Libraries, I plan to use it 99% of the time with VST Piano libraries, with my Casio CDP 220r I was not satisfied enough how it played the low velocities, it was fairly good but not as responsive as I would wanted to be..

I think I can get used to almost any piano action no matter GHS, Casio or Roland (Tried in person GHS and Casio ones, GHS is lighter but not any worse than casio, the problem is it's velocity response)

I got a PX5s the summer they first came out. I believe it was 2013. Still going strong for me. Yes it doesn't have the best keybed but has been fine for me for worship music. I love the 24lb weight.

Would I buy another one now? I probably would look at a Roland RD88 myself but that is way out of your budget. I was just letting you know some of us do like the Casio unit

I had StudioLogic SL73 studio that I used as a travel piano. In this price range, it has one of the best actions. It is Fatar - but I didn't have any issue with responsiveness etc. SL88 Grand has the Fatar's top of the line action - and I wouldn't hold that against it just because it is Fatar.

Another choice is of course Yamaha P125 - one of the best in the price range.

Also, I would recommend looking at the used market (Craigslist etc.) where you can try out the piano in person - if that is possible for you. You would get a much better action in this price range if you wait and look around.

Osho

Ty for your replies, I want to ask if anyone here had FP10/30 and the keys lasted more than 1-2 years without the reported keys problem? I'am really impressed how it does play pianissimo parts, my only concern is the durability of the keys.

$600 is a bit hard to say, but personally, as a classical pianist who need to use his keyboard daily, I would advise against the StudioLogic SL88Grand.
I had it for a year, and at 10 months, one rubber contact was torn. Also, the black keys are narrower than an acoustic piano, and shallow feeling.
In my opinion the Kawai VPC1 is the only one if you want a 100% piano feel in a midi controller, but this is way out of your price range. Still, you may have to be ready for bad durability and other compromises if going below $1000. If you are someone who need to use such things heavily, think twice and, if possible, increase your budget and get one of these advanced Kawai boards. I think it would be a wiser idea.
Hope this helps!

FP10 was my primary weighted practice DP until I recently got a VPC1. I played it several hours a day for over a year and had no issues with clicky noises in the key bed. But it's a pretty loud action to begin with. For the money, it's a great deal. I still use it to teach outdoor pandemic friendly lessons.

I've owned Roland FP pianos for 16 years.
They are extremely reliable - I had no problems with any keys.

Let's clear the air and recognize that no piano under $600 is really good. IMO they stink.

If the budget will only allow $600, then consider: If it takes time T to save $600 for the purchase, then wait for time 2 x T and save $1200. Then buy a decent piano.
Better yet, wait 3 x T and buy the VPC1 suggested above.

The latter is money well spent. The former is just a mistake yet to be recognized.

There is an alternative, though. Look for a used piano. If you can find one just a FEW years old you can get a bargain.
Piano values drop like rocks after purchase. So a used $600 piano used to be a $1500 new one. Try that route?

What “stinks” about the FP-10 is having only an RCA out. The one church gig I used it on sounded more like Miami bass than piano through a QSC K12. Compared to other DPs in OP’s price range, the keyboard action smells rather pleasant. — That said, the VPC1 is grand & worth saving up for, if possible, as Mac3 suggests.

*not RCA, 1/8" (even worse)

Also, the FP-10 having only USB out & not old school midi was stinky too.

Since you're using VSTs, you should be able to do velocity remapping pretty easily. If you can address velocity issues on the software side, then you may be able to focus on other criteria for your piano selection. Did you try any such velocity adjustment with your Casio?

I disagree here, unless you can increase the budget in a pretty short period oif time. Holding off for, say, a year to get something better is time you can't get back. And lots of people ARE perfectly happy playing these boards for a good long while. And if you want something better a year or two from now, you'll probably be able to get $300-$400 back on your $600 piano anyway.

I have had an FP30 for a year and a half, played for about an hour a day. No problems at all.