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I've start to removing pins with my power drill in a tightly pinned piano, the pins are very rusty and damaged probably with an incorrect tool, so I'll need to replace tuning pins and strings, but my 500w drill doesn't work for removing pins.
Could you please give your advice on a good tool with enough power to remove tight tuning pins?
This will help me a lot because I wish not to invest in a tool that probably will not work for this.

You need an impact driver like this.

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCF88...08&sr=1-4&keywords=Impact+driver

It doesn’t have to be this model, this is just an example. Impact drivers have a ton of torque, far more than a typical drill, which is what you need for this type of work.

I use a very old corded Craftsman 1/2" drill, which is very slow, 0 to 600 rpm max. That keeps things from burning. I think I paid less than $20 for it, reconditioned. Initially I use a bit brace, which gives great control. I can stop it where I want. You might be able to find either of those at a garage sale somewhere.

Thank you for the advise, and I think a corded one could have even more torque isn't?

Cordless has plenty of torque and it’s more versatile when the tool does not have a cord. If you go with a corded version make sure you get an impact driver and not a hammer drill, there is a big difference. You do not want a hammer drill.

John- Why would you not want a hammer drill?

D Brown
Dallas TX

Because it pounds down, and you want the pins to come up, gently.

I also use a corded 1/2" reversible drill. Plenty of power even for tight pins. I have never had success with my cordless impact driver for tuning pins except for already loose ones. I don't waste any time and just buzz them out with the corded drill with right angle handle attached.

Going to get a new pinblock anyway so who cares if they're smokin hot?

Pwg

There are people who cannot afford the extra cost of removing the piano to replace the pin block, so being careful and reusing it if it is holding pitch means that they can do the job. Otherwise they may just decide it is not worth having a piano at all.

If I need to save the block I just pull them out slower. Its just common sense. The hole can be brushed with a thin barrel brush to freshen it up. They come in several sizes.

If the pins are super tight, an initial turn or two with a tuning hammer will reduce the torque a bit.

Pwg

The other problem with extracting them too fast is that you can end up bearing down a little too much and the tuning pins go down, rather than up.

True, but there is slight side bearing technique you can use to facilitate that and get them almost all the way out.

Pwg

Hammer drills are meant for drilling through really hard surfaces like concrete, cinder blocks, bricks, etc. And like previously mentioned the drill pounds while spinning, certainly not good for the OP’s application.

As for the comparison between a drill and an impact driver, the impact driver has several times more torque than a drill has. Impact drivers are designed to have a ton of torque, that’s their strength. Check their specs online.

I use a 1/2 " Milwaukee drill with a side post for better grip. The torque will break a wrist if it got away from you. Bought it 25 years ago, and still works great.

Bob, I also bought my 1'2" Milwaukee around 25 years ago. I used a borrowed one from a friend and didn't have the side post in. First try it nearly removed my arm from my shoulder. So I said, I need one of these. Rarely use it now, because the Makita 18v LXT will do the same thing and I'm not fighting a cord.

Someone at a convention recently was saying it's better for the block if the pins are zipped out quickly, so it doesn't have time to heat up as much. Makes sense to me. Any thoughts on that?

Because of the multiple threads, tuning pins come quite a ways for each rotation, unless the weight on the drill pushes it down. The speed of the drill is not as important as the care that one takes in using it.