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#2730907 04/22/18 04:04 PM
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Mario Igrec in "Pianos Inside Out" (an excellent read) says it's important to lubricate the bearing points to reduce the risk of string breakage during tuning. I expect it would also aid in equalizing SL and NSL as well. Do any techs routinely lubricate? With CLP? There must be some downsides.

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I only lubricate if the situation requires it, and that is a rare event.


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Agreed with Ed. Only when string rendering is posing a problem. OR something with wide cloth string bearing surfaces that snap when moving the strings. Steinway, Yamaha, Bechstein come immediately to mind..I'm sure there are others.

However, honestly I do not feel that there is any harm in lubing as long as it is done reasonably. Not too much.

Pwg


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Isn't this why they use the grey graphite on the top surfaces of the bridge, under the strings, and on the action in some areas from the factory? I always thought it (the grey graphite) was for lube purposes.

I agree with Peter and Ed, lube where needed, if needed (except near the pin-block). smile

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I lubricate all the time. I hate breaking strings and I'm convinced it helps. It is also my opinion that it helps with stability. My theory is that it helps the string to move so it won't be stuck in a spot and go out of tune easily.

The other thing I've done over the last couple years is modify my hammer technique. I've used a slow pull technique for years but now have been using a jerking motion that gets the string moving quickly and helps to not break strings. This technique certainly isn't anything new, but I started using it in an effort to not break strings when doing pitch raises, especially on spinets and have found it to be in many ways superior to the slow pull. Because of this new technique I have backed off a little in my use of CLP, mainly because the stuff is a little pricey so if it's not necessary I'll save a little money. wink The only downside I can think of is the cost. frown It doesn't harm anything.


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Had a similar discussion a while ago - hope you'll pick up something useful from this thread -

http://forum.pianoworld.com/ubbthre...p-on-studs-bearing-pads.html#Post2598567


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I changed from using Protek CLP to Protek Prolube for this.

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How does the Prolube differ to CLP? My bottle of CLP just ran out, so I'm about to order...!


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My understanding is that the "prolube" is simply a thicker version of the "protek". I use both and also mix them.

Pwg


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I hate to disagree with such a master as Mario but I do. I never use lube on bearing points. It is unnecessary, wastes time and product doing it and it contaminates. The key to avoiding string breakage as well as tuning stability is in the hammer technique.


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Pwg, yes, that's my understanding too, that Protek Prolube is slightly thicker than Protek CLP. Protek Prolube comes in a spray bottle, and catalogs suggest its use for balance rail pins etc. It can of course be decanted into a hypo oiler or whatever, for other uses. (And for the matter of that, I guess Protek CLP could be put into a spray bottle....)

Bill, what about the case of, say, a 110 year old Bechstein grand with a broad expanse of understring felt (actually cloth over a slim wood batten), where the strings are bitten deeply in, and a bit corroded? Not so much for concerns about breakage, but to ease rendering, and assist stability?




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Originally Posted by Bill Bremmer RPT
I hate to disagree with such a master as Mario but I do. I never use lube on bearing points. It is unnecessary, wastes time and product doing it and it contaminates. The key to avoiding string breakage as well as tuning stability is in the hammer technique.


Greetings,
I agree with Bill and Ed. If I have strings jumping two cents at a time because the understring felt is grabbing it, a few drops of Pro-Tek CLP on the string will let me tune with far greater ease. As far as lubricating strings at their bearing point, I don't do it because I use the friction for stability. I once, in my green rebuilding phase, removed as much friction as I could on a piano. I polished all the capo and bearing points, even polished the inside of the agraffes, rubbed molybdenum assembly lube on the surfaces, wiped off, and then touched everything with a very light swipe of lithium grease. It was SLICK ! and it was untunable. There was so little friction that a FFF blow would move the string flat, and then over a few minutes, it would creep back up. So, there is a place for friction between the tuning pin and the speaking length. I have been beaten by a piano, before, where the strings moved in 1-3 cents if they moved at all. I think something lubricious would have helped, but that was an extreme case.
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I live in a subtropical area with very high humidity. While I've learned how to quickly identify and politely decline to tune these pianos with severly rusted out strings, every once in a while I get caught up in having to tune one of these. I'm talking about pianos with strings that are so rusty that a few have started to break on their own. On these, I do lubricate the bearing points and strings often still break. I don't know if it helps or not but it at least gives me the feeling that I tried everything possible to minimize the string breakage. Other than those pianos, I don't apply lubricant.


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