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Book Holder Hinges? #2429892
06/08/15 08:46 PM
06/08/15 08:46 PM
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 1
Y
YamahaKid Offline OP
Junior Member
YamahaKid  Offline OP
Junior Member
Y

Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 1
Hi all! Need some quick help and advice! The hinges for the book holder on my beloved Yamaha c108 upright piano have come loose (?), such that the book holder doesn't stay at 90 degrees anymore. Instead, the angle is obtuse, which means the books just drop onto my fingers. Hope that makes sense.

Any one with experience with this issue? Is this just an issue of undoing and re-tightening the screws on the hinges? Or do I need to get them replaced? I'm afraid to pull out the hinges for fear of making the problem even worse.

THANKS FOR ANY TIPS!

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Re: Book Holder Hinges? [Re: YamahaKid] #2429893
06/08/15 08:54 PM
06/08/15 08:54 PM
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 26,603
Oakland
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BDB Offline
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BDB  Offline
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 26,603
Oakland
If you have to ask questions like this, you are probably better off calling a piano technician to repair it. I would do it for free if you hired me to tune the piano.


Semipro Tech
Re: Book Holder Hinges? [Re: YamahaKid] #2430054
06/09/15 01:03 PM
06/09/15 01:03 PM
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,713
The Heart of Screenland
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KurtZ Offline
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KurtZ  Offline
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Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,713
The Heart of Screenland
My son broke loose the shelf of the music rack on my Pramberger. An unglued joint held by #4 (tiny) screws in the the "end grain" of MDF. The fix was moving up to #5 wood screws and reinforcing the "wood" with superglue which seeps into the material so as to create a threaded plug that if stronger than the MDF itself.

I don't know if this is applicable to your piano but it is indicative of the type of repair that may be carried out. It's probably an easy repair for someone used to this kind of work. In my case, I knew what to do but wanted to have someone else look at it. I asked about someone who might give me an estimate where I bought the piano. Their "cabinet" guy came out and when I mentioned I already had bought the #5 screws he did the work and said, "Let's call it warranty work." I tipped him $20 on top of whatever he billed back to the dealer.

Kurt


**********************************************************************************************************
Co-owner (by marriage) and part time customer service rep at an electronic musical equipment repair shop.
Re: Book Holder Hinges? [Re: YamahaKid] #2430072
06/09/15 01:49 PM
06/09/15 01:49 PM
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 26,603
Oakland
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BDB Offline
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Using larger screws is not a good idea.


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Re: Book Holder Hinges? [Re: BDB] #2430101
06/09/15 03:00 PM
06/09/15 03:00 PM
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 195
Florida Panhandle, USA
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look_alive Offline
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look_alive  Offline
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Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 195
Florida Panhandle, USA
Originally Posted by BDB
Using larger screws is not a good idea.


I was thinking the same thing. In cabinet work, it's common to fill the stripped screw hole with wood glue and gently tap wooden toothpick(s) into the hole and break them off flush with the surface. Fill with more wood glue and allow to dry completely. Then you can use the original screws and they will again fit snugly.

Would I do this to my piano? Probably not. I'd probably call a tech.


1986 Kawai GE-2 (5'7")
Casio PX-100 DP
Re: Book Holder Hinges? [Re: YamahaKid] #2430178
06/09/15 07:57 PM
06/09/15 07:57 PM
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,713
The Heart of Screenland
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KurtZ Offline
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KurtZ  Offline
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K

Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,713
The Heart of Screenland
re; bigger screws

The difference between a #4 and a #5 wood screw is 1/64th of an inch. A #5 is about an 1/8th of an inch WITH the threads while the material is just shy of 5/8 thick so given the already well centered pilot holes, I really wasn't worried about busting out a piece of the MDF. Another difference is that the #5 was bought at a woodworkers shop (Rockler) and had proper threads while the OEM screw was essentially brass colored pot metal with a hint of thread, maybe, sorta.

A toothpick works great for a lot of holes but I didn't feel it would do anything to help the poor screw holding of MDF and since the toothpick is harder than the MDF, my experience is that it just forces the screw slightly off-center in the hole and that's what provides the new "grab". This way, I knew that the lip would go right back where it was with no new reveals or crookedness. It took no longer than a toothpick repair and to me, felt safer and more secure. The Cyanoacrylate "plug" is an old RC flyers trick. They have to get really little screws to hold in balsa and that's where I picked up the trick. Where the Hollywood Piano tech learned it I have no idea. Maybe it was from using CA to tighten up loose pin block drillings? Maybe he flies RC?

In the end (grain), nothing broke and it's held for 4 years since the repair despite my leaning my wrist on the ledge while I write notations. If I ever need the screw out and simple torque won't do it, you can break the bond with a little heat from a soldering iron on the screw head and a little alcohol anywhere the CA might be holding the lip to the back. <--- Another modeler trick. Going back together, the threads will still be there (most likely) just like a threaded insert so you can use a little torque putting the screw back in without having to worry about needing another toothpick.

TL;dr: Know your material, know your tools and choose the right plane for the mission.

Kurt




**********************************************************************************************************
Co-owner (by marriage) and part time customer service rep at an electronic musical equipment repair shop.

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