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#2171409 10/24/13 05:37 PM
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I have a photographer friend who purchased an old upright Kimball with plans to gut it and use as a prop for her business. Can you give us any advice, please? My friend is also curious as to about how much the upright might weigh afterwards.

Thank you!

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The easy parts are pulling the action and the keys out, unless the keys need to stay in for looks.

To reduce weight, you want to remove the cast-iron plate, and that takes some doing.

First, the tension needs to be taken off all of the strings; they should be quite loose before you proceed, as a matter of fact. You need a tuning lever to do this; a cheapie will do.

Then, cut all of the strings, preferably as close to the tuning pins as you can. Pull all of the cut strings out, then remove the coils from the tuning pins.

Next, you probably want to remove all of the tuning pins prior to pulling the plate. The best way is to get a tuning pin socket that can be chucked into a drill motor and run them out that way; be prepared to see a little wood smoke in the process.

To remove the plate, the easiest way would be by removing the key bed first; otherwise you have to lift it them move it laterally (very difficult) to clear the key bed. With the key bed removed and the piano on its back, you can use an engine hoist or a chain fall, with straps, to lift the plate out, once it's completely unbolted from the frame. You now have a huge piece of scrap iron, or artsy wall hanging for your music room...

Reinstall the key bed, slap the case pieces back on, and you now have a PSO piano prop.

If it's an old, full-size upright, the shell will weigh ~300 pounds, I'd guess.

At least, this is how I'd do it...



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How do you gut un upright?

Stick a knife in its belly.


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Originally Posted by OperaTenor
The easy parts are pulling the action and the keys out, unless the keys need to stay in for looks.

First, the tension needs to be taken off all of the strings; they should be quite loose before you proceed, as a matter of fact. You need a tuning lever to do this; a cheapie will do.

Then, cut all of the strings, preferably as close to the tuning pins as you can. Pull all of the cut strings out, then remove the coils from the tuning pins.



Minor quibble. There is no reason to use the tuning pins to take off tension. Just snip the wires one at a time and the tension will come down automatically in increments of about 300 lbs per every 2 wires snipped. (In any case, you should wear gloves and eye protection.)

Get good wire cutters -- ideally with compound leverage. You can use any cutter for one string, but after 210 strings or so, you may be on your way to carpal tunnel syndrome.

Good luck and have fun!


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Actually Jim, you end up with a true PSO. It probably started out as a POS.

wink


Marty in Minnesota

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Originally Posted by Rod Verhnjak
How do you gut un upright?

Stick a knife in its belly.


That's the first thing that came to my mind. laugh


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Originally Posted by David Jenson
Originally Posted by Rod Verhnjak
How do you gut un upright?

Stick a knife in its belly.


That's the first thing that came to my mind. laugh


Mine, too. What's that saying about great minds . . ..??
crazy


Keith Akins, RPT
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Originally Posted by kpembrook
Originally Posted by OperaTenor
The easy parts are pulling the action and the keys out, unless the keys need to stay in for looks.

First, the tension needs to be taken off all of the strings; they should be quite loose before you proceed, as a matter of fact. You need a tuning lever to do this; a cheapie will do.

Then, cut all of the strings, preferably as close to the tuning pins as you can. Pull all of the cut strings out, then remove the coils from the tuning pins.



Minor quibble. There is no reason to use the tuning pins to take off tension. Just snip the wires one at a time and the tension will come down automatically in increments of about 300 lbs per every 2 wires snipped. (In any case, you should wear gloves and eye protection.)

Get good wire cutters -- ideally with compound leverage. You can use any cutter for one string, but after 210 strings or so, you may be on your way to carpal tunnel syndrome.

Good luck and have fun!


The above references to hand and eye protection is why I take the tension off before snipping. I also think it's a safe idea for the novice piano dismantler ("Hey Keith, I followed your advice. While I was cutting, my kid walked in the garage, and a flying string took out her eye.").

Just sayin'...



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I have not responded to this because the answer depends on the results that you want. But I have been wondering why someone would purchase a piano for this when there are so many available for free.


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Since it is being used for a theatrical prop, it probably was chosen for its casework. Price wasn't mentioned.


Marty in Minnesota

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Originally Posted by OperaTenor
Originally Posted by kpembrook
Originally Posted by OperaTenor
The easy parts are pulling the action and the keys out, unless the keys need to stay in for looks.

First, the tension needs to be taken off all of the strings; they should be quite loose before you proceed, as a matter of fact. You need a tuning lever to do this; a cheapie will do.

Then, cut all of the strings, preferably as close to the tuning pins as you can. Pull all of the cut strings out, then remove the coils from the tuning pins.



Minor quibble. There is no reason to use the tuning pins to take off tension. Just snip the wires one at a time and the tension will come down automatically in increments of about 300 lbs per every 2 wires snipped. (In any case, you should wear gloves and eye protection.)

Get good wire cutters -- ideally with compound leverage. You can use any cutter for one string, but after 210 strings or so, you may be on your way to carpal tunnel syndrome.

Good luck and have fun!


The above references to hand and eye protection is why I take the tension off before snipping. I also think it's a safe idea for the novice piano dismantler ("Hey Keith, I followed your advice. While I was cutting, my kid walked in the garage, and a flying string took out her eye.").

Just sayin'...



A good perspective. I use a Schaff tool to shear the wire at the becket and it doesn't go anywhere because the coil around the pin is still intact. (Then I remove the pins from within the detached coils and lastly remove the wire.

Just throwing a blanket over the strings would also address the issue of flying wire. But, in any event, we don't wire through a kid's eyes.


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When I was a boy there was a craze for piano smashing contests. A 2 or 3 person team with sledgehammers. Every piece had to fit through a hole 1' square. It was fun at village fetes etc. It also reduced the number of old upright wrecks about which must be a positive.


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If worth keeping, I'll usually de-hook the bass first. If not, I'll toss 'em back.

Last edited by bkw58; 10/25/13 02:05 AM.

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Originally Posted by Rod Verhnjak
How do you gut un upright?

Stick a knife in its belly.


Originally Posted by David Jenson
That's the first thing that came to my mind. laugh


Originally Posted by kpembrook
Mine, too. What's that saying about great minds . . ..??
crazy


And where are these fine folks from? Places known for their hunting: British Columbia, Maine, Michigan and Pennsylvania, too, when you include me. laugh


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Originally Posted by OperaTenor
The easy parts are pulling the action and the keys out, unless the keys need to stay in for looks.

To reduce weight, you want to remove the cast-iron plate, and that takes some doing.

First, the tension needs to be taken off all of the strings; they should be quite loose before you proceed, as a matter of fact. You need a tuning lever to do this; a cheapie will do.

Then, cut all of the strings, preferably as close to the tuning pins as you can. Pull all of the cut strings out, then remove the coils from the tuning pins.

Next, you probably want to remove all of the tuning pins prior to pulling the plate. The best way is to get a tuning pin socket that can be chucked into a drill motor and run them out that way; be prepared to see a little wood smoke in the process.

To remove the plate, the easiest way would be by removing the key bed first; otherwise you have to lift it them move it laterally (very difficult) to clear the key bed. With the key bed removed and the piano on its back, you can use an engine hoist or a chain fall, with straps, to lift the plate out, once it's completely unbolted from the frame. You now have a huge piece of scrap iron, or artsy wall hanging for your music room...

Reinstall the key bed, slap the case pieces back on, and you now have a PSO piano prop.

If it's an old, full-size upright, the shell will weigh ~300 pounds, I'd guess.

At least, this is how I'd do it...



No problem to cut the strings with a disk, but that does not help much more tha dismounting them traditionally.

The fastest way is to use a becket breaker (tap on the coil with a heavy hammer)

Wear gloves and facial mask, and earplugs if you cut the strings.

I cannot see how bass strings can be kept (unless specific common model of old piano)



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One of the most important procedures has been neglected. After the piano is gutted, the chain hoist is very helpful to hang the piano from its pedals and attached to a tall tree, to let all of the tone drain out.


Marty in Minnesota

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And let's not forget to remove the damp chaser so it does not taint the soundboard! (Experienced hunters will know what I am really refering to.)


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Originally Posted by Minnesota Marty
One of the most important procedures has been neglected. After the piano is gutted, the chain hoist is very helpful to hang the piano from its pedals and attached to a tall tree, to let all of the tone drain out.


It also make some kind of advertising to other pianos so they avoid getting out of order and old that way.



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The joys of piano camp!


Marty in Minnesota

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"It's the second octave of Piano Camp and all the tuners are here..."


Jeff Deutschle
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