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SMHaley Offline OP
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Hi forum,

About to embark on restringing a Baldwin F. The current pins are 3/0 x 2 1/2" in the bass and 3/0 2 3/8" in the treble. The pinblock was appropriately snug throughout, tune held well. Could one get away with 3.5/0 x 2 3/8 Lo-Torq throughout the scale, or is it best to go all the way to 4/0?

I'm thinking I'll save doing a new pinblock for the next go around in say 10-20 years when it would probably be appropriate to also consider some bridge work as well.

Thoughts?

Thanks all!


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"F" was the forerunner of the SF10. Serial number would be helpful. Block may be too old, needing replacement. Nevertheless, examine the block thoroughly for splits. If it is still decent, oversize + 2 is usually recommended. So, that would require 5/0. Be sure and jack the block while driving the pins.

Last edited by bkw58; 06/22/13 07:24 AM. Reason: typo

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Originally Posted by bkw58
"F" was the forerunner of the SF10. Serial number would be helpful. Block may be too old, needing replacement. Nevertheless, examine the block thoroughly for splits. If it is still decent, oversize + 2 is usually recommended. So, that would require 5/0. Be sure and jack the block while driving the pins.


You can get Lo-Torq at 4.5/0 which would likely be suitable. Because the surface area increases faster than diameter as size goes up a 3/0 to 5/0 jump will tend to be tighter than a 2/0 to 4/0 jump.

If I repin, I always use Lo-Torq -- which is as expensive for materials as using a cheap block.


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Originally Posted by SMHaley
Hi forum,

About to embark on restringing a Baldwin F. The current pins are 3/0 x 2 1/2" in the bass and 3/0 2 3/8" in the treble. The pinblock was appropriately snug throughout, tune held well. Could one get away with 3.5/0 x 2 3/8 Lo-Torq throughout the scale, or is it best to go all the way to 4/0?

I'm thinking I'll save doing a new pinblock for the next go around in say 10-20 years when it would probably be appropriate to also consider some bridge work as well.

Thoughts?

Thanks all!


If you can't replace the block, and the current pins are holding well right now,(and if they are smooth and easy to control) why not consider reusing them? I'm a big proponent of keeping the existing pins when restringing. As long as you form new coils on a dummy pin and only back the pin out 1 to 1.5 turns you shouldn't decrease the present torque at all. Works for me...


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SMHaley Offline OP
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Bob, the serial is 146256 (ca. 1960 by my research). Presumably restrung once already, maybe in the early 80's. If it were really necessary to go all the way to 5/0 then I may as well jump off the deep end and do a new block with appropriate 2/0. Since the instrument is on site and can't be brought to my shop/workplace I'm trying to take a reasonable (if conservative) approach. Im still going through the rest of it so that it will look and perform well however.

James, I personally don't consider using existing pins the route I would prefer, especially since I'm going to the trouble to put everything back in to first rate condition, including re-lacquering. It would be a shame in mind to have a nicely repaired and refinished case and hardware with tired looking blued pins. Also, since there was an inconsistency in pin length (no idea why) I wanted to do the intelligent thing and get the thoughts of the forums more experienced techs/rebuilders.

Thanks all!


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Are you professional? If so, you should reflect that in a signature to your posts. It is a requirement of the board, and particularly important in this area, because it helps us formulate appropriate responses.


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Are you going to remove the plate for refinishing? If so you should definitely replace the pinblock, or have it done for you. Not sure how you're going to be able to do this work "onsite" though...


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BDB, I'm not currently working in the trade professionally at this time. I did some mentoring/apprenticeship work with a tech more than a decade ago, and didn't quite get a job working for a rebuilding shop, which was ok since they closed and were absorbed by a dealer not long after. While I'm currently a pipe organ builder professionally, I still like to keep the piano tech skills fresh. I take care of a few instruments for a church, which is enough to keep me happy at present. While I've never done so, I'd like to think I'd have a good chance at passing the RPT testing.


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James, I wasn't necessarily going to take out the plate. The finish is actually in good shape. If a new pinblock was absolutely necessary then obviously I would just bite the bullet there as well.


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The Baldwin F is a serious instrument that demands respect. If the pins have been replaced before, best practice dictates replacing the block.

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Beethoven, I don't disagree. I considered it quite a fortuitous find given that it was retired from the fleet of a major university and at one heck of a good price given its potential value (if done right of course). If anything I'm slightly intimidated by going to the extent of a new block, because it has been quite a few years since I last did such extensive work, and then under the tutelage of a good tech. Perhaps a good tech in the Seattle area might be willing to serve in an advisory/mentoring capacity. If anyone has such a recommendation I'd be thrilled.


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Originally Posted by SMHaley
Beethoven, I don't disagree. I considered it quite a fortuitous find given that it was retired from the fleet of a major university and at one heck of a good price given its potential value (if done right of course). If anything I'm slightly intimidated by going to the extent of a new block, because it has been quite a few years since I last did such extensive work, and then under the tutelage of a good tech. Perhaps a good tech in the Seattle area might be willing to serve in an advisory/mentoring capacity. If anyone has such a recommendation I'd be thrilled.


LoTorq can be a legitimate, almost-equally-valid substitute for a new block.

If you do put in a new block, I'd recommend Falconwood -- the only pinblock that has never had a failure.

An onsite mentor in your area would be ideal. If you are interested in our DIY support, you can send me a PM.


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Thanks Keith. I'm sure I'll be calling upon your experience at some point. I'm fairly comfortable with the woodworking aspect of it and all the drilling work. So many holes is not unlike organ work, and the need for accuracy and caution at a drill press. I'm more concerned about a good fit to the plate since much of the initial shaping of the blank will have to be at my workplace whereas the piano is at the church. I suppose doing the rough shaping in shop and then taking select tools onsite for getting a good fit to the plate/flange is not out of the question though. I'm painfully aware this is a part where small errors can equal large expense if not done correctly the first time around.

Is it true that Baldwin pinblocks are fairly simple to remove and replace? I have seen a post or too eluding it doesn't get much easier.

What do you think Keith... is a new pinblock worth it for those fantastic new strings Ari is making for it, and all the rest I'm going to put on?


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Yes, Baldwin blocks are just flat planks screwed to the rim and plate, no glue. Fitting a board is not real difficult, but you will probably have to turn the plate upside-down to fit the new block.

If this is just going to stay in the church, then replacing the block is probably more effort than it is worth. I would just go up a couple of sizes of pin. Whether you use special pins, or just standard ones makes more difference to the tuner than to performance, and if a tuner cannot handle it, he or she is not much of a tuner.


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BDB, well I do think that tuning an instrument should be as pleasant a process as possible... fussing with 5/0 eh... Especially if I'm going thru all the effort of making it as first class as it can be (which would suggest doing a new pinblock). Since I'm the one who will be doing all the concert prep, I think it is wise to make it easy on myself. In my piano experience I have never found myself in a position of restringing and repinning an instrument for the 2nd time around so thinking about new pinblocks and refinishing the plate is a little bit of a new experience. The only down side, if there really is one, is that it delays the availability to use the instrument at the beginning of the concert series.


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Originally Posted by SMHaley
Bob, the serial is 146256 (ca. 1960 by my research). Presumably restrung once already, maybe in the early 80's. If it were really necessary to go all the way to 5/0 then I may as well jump off the deep end and do a new block with appropriate 2/0. Since the instrument is on site and can't be brought to my shop/workplace I'm trying to take a reasonable (if conservative) approach. Im still going through the rest of it so that it will look and perform well however.

James, I personally don't consider using existing pins the route I would prefer, especially since I'm going to the trouble to put everything back in to first rate condition, including re-lacquering. It would be a shame in mind to have a nicely repaired and refinished case and hardware with tired looking blued pins. Also, since there was an inconsistency in pin length (no idea why) I wanted to do the intelligent thing and get the thoughts of the forums more experienced techs/rebuilders.

Thanks all!


Looks like you've been given much to consider. If you opt for a new block the only thing I'd add is to be sure you keep the drill bit real cool. Best wishes on your endeavor.


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I've already got a chiller unit in mind Bob (Pianoteksupply is a great place). Probably should have had one of these at the shop on the main drill press years ago anyhow. Give the 60 gal compressor something to do other than just blow out dust and run nail guns.


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I can say is that I never check the size of the tuning pins before I tune. It might be interesting to see if any of the other techs here do.

In any case, the torque will be higher the more surface area between the pin and the block no matter what the top of the pin is like. The amount of pitch change per degree of movement will depend on more than just the size of the tuning pin. The length of the piano should make more of a difference.


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Originally Posted by BDB
I can say is that I never check the size of the tuning pins before I tune. It might be interesting to see if any of the other techs here do...


I never did, either. 6/0 is commonly seen around these parts in some of the older "rebuilds." These were bit of a pain to deal with.


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Originally Posted by SMHaley
Thanks Keith. I'm sure I'll be calling upon your experience at some point. I'm fairly comfortable with the woodworking aspect of it and all the drilling work. So many holes is not unlike organ work, and the need for accuracy and caution at a drill press. I'm more concerned about a good fit to the plate since much of the initial shaping of the blank will have to be at my workplace whereas the piano is at the church. I suppose doing the rough shaping in shop and then taking select tools onsite for getting a good fit to the plate/flange is not out of the question though. I'm painfully aware this is a part where small errors can equal large expense if not done correctly the first time around.

Is it true that Baldwin pinblocks are fairly simple to remove and replace? I have seen a post or too eluding it doesn't get much easier.

What do you think Keith... is a new pinblock worth it for those fantastic new strings Ari is making for it, and all the rest I'm going to put on?



The Baldwin block is easy enough to remove -- no glue or attachment to the front beam (stretcher). However, you must have the plate and block in the same location to do the fitting. (Yeah, you can fill the gaps with epoxy, but after witnessing failure with that approach, I think it best to meet Baldwin's minimum standard, which is contact between the plate flange and pinblock at least every 2 inches.


Keith Akins, RPT
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